Essential Equipment for Mountaineering
Ice Axes
First advice: if you don’t know how to use it, don’t use it. Ice axes are dangerous if used improperly. It is best to be taught in a class or by a friend or mentor before you try to use an ice axe on a mountain. If conditions have a lot of snow, ice axes are needed to stop a climber’s fall should they start to slide (self-arrest), or to use as a rudder and brake during glissading.
Ice axes are fitted a person’s height, and have a straight shaft for general mountaineering. More technical (steeper) climbing may require a curved ice axe or ice tool.
Crampons
Crampons must be fitted to a climber’s boot before leaving the parking lot, especially if they are rented or borrowed. Some crampons clip onto a lip at the front and back of mountaineering boots, and others are more versatile and are strapped on instead of clipped. When renting, the climber should have had to bring in their exact boot to get fitted (or rented boots there).
Crampons are used to provide extra traction in icy conditions. It is often difficult to predict where these icy conditions may pop up, as they sometimes occur in patches, even when the rest of the route is soft snow. It is always better to carry crampons with you and not need them, then to find yourself stuck in a place without them.
Micro-Spikes
Microspikes are a more accessible version of crampons, but they have their downfalls. They are not as durable, as the attachment system is roughly a glorified rubber band. The spikes are not as long, and therefore provide less secure traction in steep areas with ice. Microspikes are overall less appropriate for Mount St. Helens than crampons, and better suited for less steep, shorter, and lower elevation trails.
However, in late season when the snow level is dropping, climbers may choose to use microspikes because they are lighter weight and are more adaptive to hiking boots (if the conditions are suited for hiking boots instead of mountaineering boots). If the climber only has microspikes, it is better than nothing, but I encourage crampon use when mountaineering boots and ice axes are also recommended.
Snowshoes
Snowshoes are mostly recommended in winter season climbs, not typically in summer. They are helpful when there is more a few inches of new or soft snow present, sometime on top of older, more compact snow. They evenly distribute weight over a wide area to prevent a climber from punching through, called “post-holing”, which can be dangerous and cause injury, especially near rocks. The only snowshoes appropriate to climb Mount St. Helens (or any steep terrain) are those with a “heel lift,” which is a bar that can be flipped up to provide a more even platform for your foot to rest when ascending.
Gaiters
Gaiters are a lifesaver to help keep ash out of your boot in the summer, and snow and water out in winter. They are not a required piece of gear but can make or break a climber’s happiness.
Summer gaiters are shorter and can be attached to trail runners or hiking boots. Winter gaiters are taller, more waterproof, and more durable in case they get nicked by a crampon or ice axe.
Trekking Poles
Trekking poles are always recommended, especially for those who experience knee pain. They can take some of the weight off your pack, and help you balance in steep terrain. Trekking poles collapse or telescope, whereas traditional ski poles are just one big long pole that will be too cumbersome to climb with. A climber can adjust trekking poles to different heights, such as shorter when hiking uphill, and longer when hiking downhill.
Folding poles: These poles fold like a tent pole, are very lightweight, but may not be height adjustable.
Twist-Lock: These poles tend to be less expensive, but also less durable as the locking mechanism typically fails after extensive use.
Flick-Lock: These poles have a clasp at each joint, are more expensive, but more durable.
Hiking Boots vs. Mountaineering Boots vs. Plastic Boots
Hiking Boots are leather or synthetic, and come in a variety of different models, widths, treads, and ankle heights.
Stiffness: Flexible sole to accommodate a range of terrains
Durability: Pretty rugged
Crampon Compatibility: Will only accommodate microspikes or strap-on crampons (though not recommended)
Weight: Lighter weight
Warmth: Most are uninsulated, unless explicitly for snow and winter hiking
Mountaineering Boots are leather or synthetic, and come in a variety of different models, lacing structures, built-in gaiters or gaiter attachments, and insulation factors.
Stiffness: ¾ to full length metal shank through sole to support kicking steps in snow and ice
Durability: Very rugged
Crampon Compatibility: Some have a groove at the front and/or back of the boot to accommodate clip-on crampons, and others do not and will only accommodate strap-on. Ensure your crampons fit your boots.
Weight: Heavier than hiking boots
Warmth: Generally warmer than hiking boots, however most are uninsulated unless otherwise stated.
Plastic Boots have a large plastic shell and a removable foam or felt inner boot. These are best suited for high alpine objectives such as Denali or Himalayas, although newer, lighter boot options are becoming more popular.
Stiffness: ¾ to full length metal shank through sole to support kicking steps in snow and ice.
Durability: Most rugged
Crampon Compatibility: Has a groove at the front and back of the boot to clip in crampons. Can also accommodate strap-on crampons.
Weight: Heaviest option
Warmth: Extremely warm
